7 Tips to Get Your Car Out When Stuck in the Snow

Want a few foolproof ways to get your car out when it’s stuck in the snow? We’ve pulled together our 7 best tips for getting—and staying—unstuck!

• If your car becomes stuck in the snow, stay calm. That’s difficult to do when you’re not used to driving in snow, the kids are crying or grouchy, and you’re running late. But the best thing to do to free your car is not panic.
• “Whenever there is a front people always run around covering up their plants but they don’t think about their cars,” said Jeff Boone, automotive repair specialist for AAA Mid-Atlantic. “Remember, safety first. There is no boss in the world that will fire you because you’re a little late [due to snow]…Better to get there late than have an ambulance get you there early.”
• Ideally, your car already has properly inflated all-weather tires with good tread that can handle the snow. If you’re traveling beyond your state, be sure to check state laws. Neighboring states might require – or forbid – certain types of equipment such as chains. You should also have a shovel in the car, long before the first snow begins.

But what to do if all of your safe driving efforts still result in your car stuck in snow? Try these strategies from car safety experts to get you moving again.

• Don’t spin your tires. That will only dig your car in deeper and possibly damage the tires.
• Put the car in the lowest possible gear and try to back up slowly. Stop. Then move forward, slowly. Ideally, that rocking will help the car gain traction.
• If that fails, turn the steering wheel and again, try to back up slowly, then move ahead slowly.
• Still stuck? Get out of the car (make sure it’s in park with the safety brake on) and try to dig out any excess snow around the tires. If you have sand, kitty litter or even an old piece of cardboard, put it under your rear tires before you try to pull out again.

 

Surviving when you car gets stuck in the snow

Source: ABC News

Snow and ice make winter driving a dangerous game, in which motorists can slip, slide or get stuck in the snow — for who knows how long.

The National Weather Service says 70 percent of fatalities related to ice and snow happen in automobiles. Not everyone knows what to do when they get stuck in the snow, though some manage to survive through a combination of wits and good luck.

In January 1997, a deadly South Dakota blizzard left Karen Nelson stranded in her pickup truck. Rescuers, aided by a military fighter aircraft, pinpointed her location by talking to her on a cellular phone, and she was rescued. But help didn’t come until 40 hours later.

In December 2000, a car was discovered, buried in snow on a back road in Oregon.

“I knocked on the window, and I saw that much of his hand come up to the window and he knocked back,” rescuer Charles Bloom told Good Morning America at the time. Inside the car was a man who had survived 16 days on M&Ms, orange juice and a quart of water.

A little more than two weeks ago, Robert Ward drove straight into another kind of catastrophe, when he crashed into a snowy ravine in West Virginia. Battling frostbite and hypothermia, he kept alive for 6 ½ days drinking melted snow, eating peanut butter and packets of taco sauce.

Ward even ripped out the car interior lining and used it to help him survive until help arrived. “I did that for a couple reasons — one was to burn for heat,” Ward told GMA.

What To Do?

Outdoor survival expert Brian Brawdy joined Good Morning America at a man-made blizzard at the Shawnee Mountain ski resort in Pennsylvania to explain what to do if you get stuck in the middle of nowhere with your vehicle in freezing cold, snowy weather.

One of the key questions is whether to stay in the car or go get help. Brawdy says it is better to stick with the car, unless it is an easy walk to safety.

“One, it’ll help block the wind and keep you warm and dry. And two, if someone does come to look for you it’ll be easier for them to find your car than it would be you as an individual stuck in a snow bank,” Brawdy said.

But you should also be aware that staying in the car can be deadly, too. Motorists who are stranded in the snow should step out of the car and quickly check to make sure that their car’s tailpipe isn’t blocked by a chunk of ice, or a mound of snow. If it is, deadly fumes can get into the vehicle.

“Carbon monoxide will kill you in a heartbeat,” Brawdy said.

He also suggests wiping off the taillights or the headlights so that searchers will be able to see the vehicle from a distance.

But don’t waste time outside the shelter of your car. Stay inside the vehicle, and buckle up, Brawdy said.

“Even though we’re parked, we want to apply our seat belt, just in case we get hit from behind,” Brawdy said.

You can run the car’s heater, but you should do it only about 15 minutes every hour to conserve fuel in the car. When the heater is running, crack the back window — whichever one is out of the wind — ever so slightly just to make sure that those poisonous gasses aren’t lingering on the inside of the car.

Huddled at an Exit Ramp

Two years ago, Jennifer Kingston and Mary Anne Johnson were trapped in their cars right next to each other on a Buffalo, N.Y., exit ramp for 27 hours before they were rescued.

“It was like a blanket of white,” Kingston recalled.

The two women joined forces, and spent most of the night in Kingston’s van, talking. They recently reunited — greeting each other with hugs — to talk about their experience.

“It was a nice conversation,” Johnson said.

Kingston agreed. “I really feel like it was almost like God brought us together to get through a bad situation,” she said.

Johnson said she could have gotten into trouble because she did not check the tailpipe and didn’t open the window.

“I was lucky,” she said. “Once I got free, all of a sudden, the adventure was over and like all the emotions just started draining and I just began sobbing all the way home.”

Fall Car Care: 10 Tips

It won’t be long before the weather gets iffy, if that time hasn’t already arrived. Driving safely during the fall months requires more than just cautious driver behavior. Your car also needs some attention.

Here are 10 practical tips to help get your car ready for fall.

Check the brakes and tires.  Inclement weather and associated road conditions and other hazards require good stopping power. That means good brakes and tires. If the tires have wear bars showing, say the experts, you need to replace the tires. Most good brake and tire shops will inspect the brakes and tires at no charge. Also check the tire pressure, as tire pressure drops when the outside temperatures plummet. Keep the pressure at levels recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

Check the lights. Walk around the outside of the car and check the operation of all lights: headlights, taillights, parking lights, brake lights and emergency flashers. Replace all broken bulbs and those that have stopped working. Make sure all lights are clean. If you own an older vehicle with sealed-beam headlamps, you might want to pony up for halogen lamps for improved visibility and safer driving.

Replace wiper blades. The purpose of wiper blades is to completely clear the windshield. Cracked or worn blades won’t do an adequate job. Check the blade’s rubber to ensure it is flexible and operate the wipers to see that the blades clear the glass. Replace worn blades.

Make sure heater/defroster work. Driving with an improperly working heater isn’t fun or safe. Driving with fogged-up windows is an accident waiting to happen. Check front and rear window defrosters to ensure proper working condition. If necessary, have heater and defroster systems repaired.

Have the battery checked. A fully charged battery is necessary to start the car in cold weather. Have the battery and charging system inspected by a trained technician who can replace it if required. If you see signs of corrosion on the battery terminals or cable ends or if you spot loose connections, your battery needs attention.

Inspect under the hood. Looking under the hood will allow you to identify any obvious signs of wear or items that need replacing or fixing. Look for leaks, cracks or loose clamps in the cooling system and squeeze the hoses and replace any that are spongy-feeling or brittle. Inspect the underside of drive belts for fraying and replace as required. If you’ve noticed any engine noises, experienced sputtering or other engine problems, have a licensed mechanic thoroughly inspect the engine and make any necessary repairs.

Change oil and air filter. If the oil is dirty or you’re at your recommended oil change time, change the oil. Also check the air filter to ensure that it is clean enough to allow for proper operation. If you can’t see light through it when you hold it up to a 60-watt bulb, it’s time to replace the air filter.

Refill cooling system. Experts such as AAA recommend checking the coolant level in the overflow tank when the engine is cold. If the level is too low, add a 50/50 solution of water and coolant to allow proper antifreeze capability. It may be necessary to refill the cooling system.

Check all fluid levels. This includes washer fluid, along with transmission, brake and power steering fluids. Make sure they are all at or above minimum safe levels and refill as necessary.

Get a good car wash/detail. It may sound crazy, spiffing up your car with an extra-special wash or even a detail, but when your vehicle is clean, it’s easier to spot any potential problems.

….And then, of course, an 11th IMPORTANT tip: Get those snow tires on!

via The Car Connection

10 Tips to prep your vehicle for winter driving

1. Get the right kind of oil change. Are you approaching the time for a 30,000-mile full service for your vehicle? If so, don’t procrastinate! Among other things, the service should include an oil change, and the oil used should have the right viscosity, or thickness, for your vehicle at this time of year. Oil tends to thicken as it gets colder, and if it’s too thick it won’t do the best job of keeping your engine lubricated. Check your owner’s manual for guidance about which oil to use in different climates and temperatures.

2. Make sure you can see. When’s the last time you replaced your windshield wiper blades? They usually work effectively for about one year, so be sure to invest in some new ones if you’re due. Here’s another important step to take before you find yourself struggling to see in a blinding storm: Fill up your windshield washer reservoir with windshield washer fluid. (Plain water won’t do the trick at this time of year because it freezes.) Also check to see that your heater and defroster are working properly so you can keep the windshield nice and clear.

3. Give your battery a little TLC. This is an ideal time of year to make sure your battery’s posts and connections are corrosion-free and that your battery has all the water it needs. If your battery is more than three years old, have a certified repair shop test its ability to hold a charge. Granted, you might be able to find a Good Samaritan to help you jump-start your vehicle in the middle of a blizzard — but wouldn’t you rather avoid such a scenario altogether?

4. Examine your belts and hoses. When you have that full service done on your vehicle, make sure the belts and hoses get checked for wear and tear — even if you’re driving a modern car. Cold weather can do a number on belts and hoses, so they deserve attention.

5. Check your tire pressure. Your tires must be properly inflated to ensure you’ll have the best possible traction as you drive along — and traction is often severely jeopardized in wet, snowy or icy conditions. The air pressure in your tires has likely dropped as the weather has gotten colder, so it’s important to see where things stand now. (You can generally expect that you’ll lose 1 pound per square inch whenever the temperature drops by 10 degrees Fahrenheit.) Again, your trusty owner’s manual will tell you what your target tire pressure should be.

6. Switch to snow tires. In our mountain driving conditions,  you will want to improve traction even more by investing in winter tires and using them over the next few months instead of your usual all-season tires. When shopping around for snow tires, ask about all the fees that might come into play, such as fees for mounting and balancing. You can accomplish this easily and make accurate cost comparisons by asking each store for the “out the door charge.”

7. Do you have four-wheel drive? If so, it’s important to check the status of your four-wheel-drive system and be sure it’s working correctly — especially because most drivers don’t use their 4WD systems in the pleasant summer months. Be sure that the system engages and disengages easily, and that all drivers in your household know how and when to activate the system.

8. Get the antifreeze mixture just right. Aim for having a 50-50 mix of antifreeze (coolant) and water inside your radiator. This will prevent the mixture from freezing even at ridiculously cold temperatures. It’s easy to check the status of the mixture with an inexpensive antifreeze tester, which you can pick up at any auto parts store. If the mixture is off, your cooling system should be drained and refilled or flushed. Be sure you’re equipped to dispose of your old antifreeze properly if you do this job yourself. It can’t just be poured down the drain.

9. Prepare an emergency kit. Store this stuff in your trunk during the winter months, especially if a road trip is in your future:

• a blanket
• extra boots and gloves
• an extra set of warm clothes
• extra water and food, including hard candies
• an ice scraper
• a small shovel
• a flashlight
• windshield washer fluid
• windshield wipers
• flares
• jumper cables
• a tool kit
• tire chains
• a tire gauge
• a spare tire with air in it
• tire-changing equipment
• a first-aid kit
• paper towels
• a bag of abrasive material such as sand, salt or non-clumping kitty litter, which can provide additional traction if a tire gets stuck in snow.
• Also, keep the gas tank as full as you can to prevent the gas lines from freezing.

10. Know what to do if you get stranded. Don’t wander away from your car unless you’re completely sure about where you are and how far away help is. Light two flares and situate them at each end of your vehicle to call attention to your plight. Put on the extra clothes and use the blanket to stay warm. If you have enough gas in the tank, run the engine and heater for about 10 minutes for each hour you’re waiting for help. Leave at least one window open a little bit so that snow and ice don’t seal the car shut. Suck on a hard candy to prevent your mouth from getting too dry.

via Today.com

How to winterize your camper

The summer fun is coming to a close in Steamboat, and if you’ve had a fun summer of towing that camper around to some fabulous places, now is the time to think about winterizing it (before that first real frost hits!

Read through our easy how-to steps below, and don’t worry, we’ve covered everything – from the too-obvious to the very important.

Inside your camper

• Remove all food from the trailer that could go bad during the winter months. Canned items should not be left in sub zero temperatures or they will perish.
• Turn off the refrigerator and open all the doors on the refrigeration unit. This will stop lingering odors and prevent moisture buildup.
• Ensure all the windows are properly closed and that the doors are locked. Also, make sure the roof vent is properly closed.

Outside the trailer

• Check the roof for places snow or water might pool. If there are any spots you are concerned about, raise or lower the tongue jack accordingly.
• Cover the tires. If you are worried about winter storage damage, keep in mind that UV rays from the sun are more damaging than covering your tires for the winter. Tire covers can be purchased from RV accessory stores, or may have been included with the purchase of your camper trailer.
• Place steel wool in any areas that rodents could gain access to the trailer. Look under the trailer for small gaps between the walls and the floor. Make sure to place the steel wool in the vents and around the outside furnace vent to prevent rodents from entering.

Methods of Winterizing Water Lines

• Remove all the water from the trailer’s plumbing system using compressed air to blow out the water lines. Use an air compressor and a Schrader valve to attach the air compressor to the water line of your trailer. Turn on the compressor and wait until there is no water vapor coming from any of the faucets or the showerhead. This method is called blowing out the water lines and is effective if you have time to wait until all the water has been emptied.
• Pour antifreeze into the fresh water tank if you don’t want to blow out the lines. Non-toxic antifreeze can be purchased at most hardware stores. Run all the faucets and the shower until the water comes out the same color as the antifreeze you added; usually this is red. Make sure you flush the toilet until it also becomes red. Finally, run some hot water to get antifreeze into the hot water tank. This is an alternative to blowing the water lines.
• Dump a quantity of antifreeze into the water tank. Turn on the water pump to pump the antifreeze through the system. While this method uses less antifreeze than the method from Step 2, it is one of the less effective methods and is therefore less favorable.

(source: ehow.com)

Car Disasters: DOs and DON’Ts if you’re caught in water

Being trapped in a car that’s submerged in water and quickly filling up is easily one of the most terrifying disaster scenarios a motorist could face. What’s worse: The only way you’re getting those doors open once the vehicle goes under is to wait until it fills to neck level and the pressure equalizes. Don’t even expend the energy struggling; you’ll need it to need it to complete your escape.

DO

• Stay calm. You’ll need your wits about you.
• Unbuckle your seat belt.
• Unlock your doors.
• Turn on your headlights and hazard lights. This will make it easier for emergency personnel to see you.
• Take jackets and outer clothing off.
• Call 911.
• Lower your window. Most electric windows should work unless the car is completely submerged in water.
• If you can lower the windows, do so, but slowly. Climb out. Get to high ground.
• If the windows cannot open, you’ll have to use a door to get out. But you won’t be able to open a door until the water pressure is equalized between the outside and the inside of the car. This means you’ll have to wait for water to enter the car and fill up to about your neck level (this sounds terrifying, but this is the only way the doors will open).
• Once the doors are open, tread water and swim to safety.

DON’T

• Do not panic.
• Do not use your energy trying to open the doors because water pressure will keep them from budging (wait for the pressure to equalize).
• Do not try to save your possessions.
• Do not try to break windows to get out. If water pressure has not equalized, glass will explode inward toward you or other occupants.
• Once out, do not stay with your car. Get to high ground.
• Do not stand on the roof of your car. If your car is swept away, you’ll be carried away with it. You could also fall and injure yourself if the car shifts abruptly.
• Do not return to your car if you think the water level is going down. Water levels could rise without warning. Allow emergency personnel to tow your vehicle to a safe place.

via Cars.com

What can I do to make my car more fuel efficient?

via Cars.com

In terms of maintenance, the most cost-effective task for improving fuel economy is keeping your tires inflated to their recommended pressure level; any gain is not likely to be dramatic.

The federal Department of Energy/EPA fuel economy website, Fueleconomy.gov, says under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by as much as 3.3 percent. Air is cheaper than gas, so it pays to keep tires inflated to what the manufacturer recommends on the tire placard typically found on the driver’s doorjamb and in the owner’s manual.

Tire choice also can improve fuel economy. You have to stick with the size and, to some extent, the type of tire specified by the vehicle manufacturer (such as performance versus all season), but when it’s time to replace tires you should investigate what alternatives are available. For example, if your SUV is equipped with knobby off-road tires designed for slogging through mud and gravel but 98 percent of your driving is on paved roads, you could switch to all-season tires with a smoother tread and low rolling resistance that can improve fuel economy.

Some SUV and pickup owners obviously love the monster-truck look that comes with massive tires, but they are spending extra cash at the pump for that look.

No matter what you drive, when you shop for tires you should look for those described as having low rolling resistance or fuel-saving technology.

Don’t ignore a check engine light or other warnings involving the emissions system because those are often indications that a component of the emissions and/or fuel system has failed. A faulty sensor can send incorrect signals to the computers that control today’s engines, and that could result in unnecessary fuel consumption. The DOE and EPA estimate this could reduce fuel economy 4 percent on average and as much as 40 percent from a faulty oxygen sensor. With electronic ignition and computer controls, the traditional automotive tuneup is history. About the only tuneup-related items left are replacing the spark plugs and the engine air filter. Most vehicle maintenance schedules call for spark plugs to be replaced every 100,000 miles or more, and we aren’t sure fresh ones will yield enough benefit to justify the cost. Engine computers do a remarkable job of compensating for worn plugs.

The DOE and EPA say a fresh air filter can improve acceleration 6 to 11 percent because of better air flow but won’t have a noticeable effect on fuel economy.

Though this doesn’t fall into the maintenance category, slowing down is a great way to save gas. We’re all in a hurry at least some of the time, but the DOE and EPA say that avoiding jack-rabbit starts and staying within the speed limit can improve fuel economy 7 to 14 percent. On many urban expressways and interstate highways, doing the speed limit means you’ll get a lot of dirty looks and maybe some unfriendly gestures from antsy motorists. But moving over to the right lane and slowing down a little should save some gas.

Teen Driver Do’s & Don’ts

Are you working with a new driver this summer? Be sure to read through our Do’s and Don’ts for safe teen driving.  As a parent, you will always be worried about your young driver, but it will help knowing they are prepare.

Pre-emptive driver’s ed — You’ll give your teen a real edge if you start teaching some basics about cars — and the rules of the road — well before he or she gets close to legal driving age. The “sink or swim” approach that’s typical in America of tossing an inexperienced and largely untrained 16-year-old the keys helps explain the high rate of accidents (and fatalities) involving teen drivers. Instead of counting on a few weeks or months of “driver’s ed” to get your teen ready for the road, take it upon yourself (or get your spouse or another mature adult with good driving skills) to start the process much earlier, around age 14 or so. Provide a good example behind the wheel, for starters — and explain by doing the importance of safe driving fundamentals such as not following other cars too closely, proper merging technique, use of turn signals and maintaining “situational awareness” of one’s vehicle in relation to the other vehicles on the road by frequently checking side and rearview mirrors, etc. You can even do some “behind the wheel” training in empty parking lots, to familiarize your teen with the basics of smoothly controlling a car. Teaching them how to drive in a manual transmission-equipped car is especially recommend — as it takes more skill, concentration and coordination to master, which will make your kid a better driver right off the bat. There’s no such thing as too much training — and the more your teen has before he or she turns 16, the better equipped they’ll be to drive safely — and avoid the sort of accidents that are common among inexperienced, first-time drivers.

Ease them into it — We crawl before we walk, and we walk before we run. The same is true of driving. Short trips in familiar areas, at low speeds, in daylight — and with an adult — should be the rule before there’s any talk of “road trips,” night driving — or driving with other teens in the car. A new teen driver should always have an adult riding shotgun for at least the first month or two — both to offer constructive criticism and to observe the teen’s driving habits. Some teens (just like adults) are naturally better drivers than others, with a better sense of spatial relationships, the ability to judge speed and distance — and general coordination. By riding with your teen, you’ll get a handle on how high (or low) their natural skills are — and how well (or not) they’re able to smoothly integrate into traffic, obey the rules of the road and show courtesy to other drivers, as well as exercise common sense. Be severe in reprimanding both dangerous habits (such as tailgating and failure to pay attention) as well as any signs of rudeness or discourtesy toward other motorists. Bad — and good — habits tend get ingrained at an early age. As time goes by and your teen displays maturity and ever-improving skills behind the wheel, you can let the rope out a little — allowing longer trips and night driving (when necessary, as to get to work).

Emergency maneuvering — Most standard (public school-based) driver’s education programs don’t really get into things like driving on ice, skid control or panic braking — which when you think about are essential accident-avoidance skills all drivers (not just teens) should possess. You’d be doing your kid — and yourself — a great favor by enrolling him or her in a driving school where these skills are taught by professionals (often former race car drivers) on closed-course tracks. Two of the best are Bob Bondurant’s School of High Performance Driving (www.bondurant.com or 1-800-842-7223) Phoenix, AZ. Advanced Teenage Driving (3 days, $3,095), Highway Survival Training (1 day, $1,175), High Performance Driving (2 days, $2,195) and Skip Barber’s Driving School (www.skipbarber.com or 800-221-1131) CA and CT; one or two-day programs, $995-$1,295. The one-time expense involved may be a little high — but it’s a whole lot cheaper than a totaled car –or an injured child. Plus, successful passage may earn you a discount on your teen’s insurance policy.

Zero tolerance of immature/irresponsible driving — After inexperience, immaturity is probably the biggest single danger facing teen drivers. Any behavior that suggests your kid may not be ready for the responsibility of controlling a potentially lethal motor vehicle should be cause for an immediate sit-down to discuss the problem — and if need be, suspension by you of all driving privileges. Minor speeding tickets are one thing; most of us have been issued one at some point and they are by no means necessarily indicative of careless or irresponsible driving. But anything objectively dangerous — for example, running a red light, failing to stop at a stop sign — should be taken very seriously indeed. It ought to go without saying that a reckless driving charge — or anything involving alcohol or illegal drugs — should be an immediate ticket to the back seat (or the bus). As a parent, you have the right to set the boundaries and determine whether your child may drive — or not — until they are 18 and on their own.

Make them pay for their own insurance — Nothing prompts good behavior more effectively than being tied to the consequences of bad behavior. If your teen has to spend his own hard-earned money on car insurance, it’s a good bet he’ll be extra careful to avoid tickets — as well as dangerous situations that might lead to an accident, such as racing — or just being stupid with the car. Parents who subsidize their teen’s car insurance are not doing their children any favors; all they’re doing is aiding and abetting their existence in a fantasy world that will disappear like Cinderella’s coach the moment they turn 18 and find they must take care of themselves — and pay their own way. It’s also a good policy to let your teen buy his own car — for the same reasons.

No SUVs, no sports cars — A first car should be predictable in its handling, easy to drive — and with fairly low “limits” — so its lacking experience driver doesn’t get in over his head too easily. That means avoiding any sort of special-purpose vehicle such as an SUV (poor handling and braking compared to a standard passenger car) or, worse, a high-performance sports car — which in the hands of a marginally skilled new driver is a lot like giving a fully-automatic rifle to someone with next to no experience handling firearms. Teens are subject to peer pressure and a flashy, fancy fast car may egg them on to dumbo moves they could end up spending a lifetime regretting. Let them build skill — and learn from their mistakes — in something more forgiving. A good choice for a teen’s first car is a plain Jane sedan or wagon in good, safe running shape equipped with all-season tires, air bags and ABS — and a “basic” engine sufficient to get the job done — but no more.

Summer Driving Tips: Tire Safety

Summer driving season is ahead, and, like always, safety is important

We recommend taking five minutes every month and before every long drive to check your tires, including the spare. These tire safety tips from the Rubber Manufacturers Association are designed to help drivers make sure that they’re ready for safe, enjoyable road trips this summer.

Tire Pressure

• Make sure you check your tire pressure regularly – at least once per month and before every long trip — including the spare and keep it at the level recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
• The correct cold inflation pressure for your tires is listed on the vehicle label on the door post, fuel door, glove box or in the owners’ manual. “Cold inflation pressure” refers to the pressure in a tire that has not been driven for at least three hours. As tires warm during driving, it is normal for pressure to build up. Never “bleed” or reduce air pressure when tires are hot.
• The tire pressure listed on your sidewalls is the maximum pressure and is not intended to serve as notification of the correct pressure.
• Under inflation creates excessive stresses and heat and may lead to tire failure. It is also important to guard against overinflation, which can cause uneven wear plus handling and stopping problems.

Vehicle Loading and Overloading

• Before you fill the trunk and the roof rack with your stuff, check out the vehicle manufacturers recommendations for loading your vehicle. You may not realize it, but you and your passengers count towards the total recommended vehicle weight.
• The vehicle manufacturers loading recommendation can be found on the vehicle information placard on the door post or in the vehicle owners’ manual.
• Overloading your vehicle creates excessive heat inside your tires. Excessive heat can cause tire failure that could result in vehicle damage and/or serious injury or even death.
• And don’t forget, if you’re going to be driving long distances with a loaded vehicle or you haven’t had your car checked in a while, have the alignment and rotation checked. Tires and wheels that are out of balance or misaligned can cause uneven wear or vehicle problems. Have your car checked by an automotive service professional before you leave.

Tread

• Check the tread grooves of your tires to make sure that they’re free of foreign objects. This makes it easier for your tires to grip the road and increases your ability to safely maneuver your car.
• Also check the sidewalls to make sure there are no gouges, cuts, bulges or other irregularities.
• You may have irregular tread wear if there are high and low areas or unusually smooth areas. Built-in treadwear indicators, or “wear bars,” which look like narrow strips of smooth rubber across the tread will appear on the tire when the tread is worn down to one-sixteenth of an inch. When you see these “wear bars,” the tire is worn out and should be replaced.

Top Ten Towing Tips

Over 15,000 people have been killed in crashes involving passenger vehicles towing trailers since 1975¹ with more than 65,000 crashes involving passenger vehicles towing trailers occurring in one year alone.² Lack of knowledge of correct towing techniques is clearly a contributing factor – in fact, a recent study² revealed that 71% of Americans who tow admitted to being only somewhat to not knowledgeable about proper towing practices and safety! So, as the spring/summer road trip and tow season approaches, we found these Top Ten Towing Tips from AutoMD.com to make sure that vacation road trippers not only tow their recreational ‘toys’ safely, but also avoid extra wear and tear on their towing vehicle.

“Driving may still be the best travel choice for families this spring and summer, but for those who will be hauling their fun behind them, it is important to remember that without careful planning, attention to equipment and safe driving practices, these extra loads can be a hazard to driver, passengers and vehicle – and to other drivers as well,” said Brian Hafer, VP Marketing at AutoMD.com.

There are many things to consider when towing extra cargo. AutoMD.com’s Top Ten Towing Tips provide crucial advice for the novice tower, as well as a refresher for those who are more experienced with hauling an extra load.

Top 10 Towing Tips

The information and advice provided herein is general and intended to be a starting point to gather information about towing practices. You should not rely solely on the information contained herein as it may not be suitable for your particular automobile or situation. Please consult your vehicle and trailer owner’s manual before attempting to tow anything.

1. Understanding Towing Capacity

Never exceed your vehicle’s towing capacity. For example, you may think that just because you have a truck, you can tow a boat, but if the boat and trailer are heavier than your towing capacity, you can find yourself in deep water (literally!). If your tow load exceeds your car or truck’s capacity, it can lead to significant mechanical issues and/or transmission damage. Plus, it can cause sway issues, which can have a devastating impact on others on the road. To find out what your car/truck’s towing capacity is, consult your vehicle owner’s manual. There are also public and private scale locations that can help you determine the weight of your trailer and cargo.

2. Let’s Get Hitched

A tow hitch attaches to the chassis of a car allowing it to connect to and tow a trailer or other vehicle. Buying the right hitch is crucial if your vehicle is not already equipped with a manufacturer’s towing package. Your hitch must not only match your vehicle’s towing capacity but must be the appropriate hitch for the load you are carrying: for instance, a weight-distributing hitch is appropriate for towing a heavier load (especially when the trailer and load weigh more than 50 percent of the vehicle’s weight), and it can help reduce sway.

3. Are All Brakes in Sync?

Make sure that the brakes and lights on your car or truck are in sync with the brakes and lights on your trailer. Your trailer brakes and brake lights should go on when your car/truck’s brakes and brake lights go on. If your car/truck signals left, so should your trailer. Not only is this basic road safety, but having operable, in sync lights when towing is the law in many states. And many states require that a towed trailer weighing more than 1,500 pounds has its own brake system.

4. Weight Distribution is Critical

As you prepare to tow a trailer, make sure your load is distributed appropriately for weight. Incorrect weight distribution can cause your trailer to flip with devastating consequences for you and others on the road. Load heavier cargo first, making sure you secure your item(s) with ropes or cords. Fill in extra spaces evenly, front to back, and side to side. By placing sixty percent of the cargo weight on the front half of the trailer, this helps properly distribute weight across the tow hitch and trailer. Take into account visibility: don’t pile things so high that you obstruct the driver’s view unless you have extended side-view mirrors. Always check to be sure you have unobstructed views before hitting the road.

5. Perform a Maintenance Check on Your Vehicle

As with any road trip, make sure your car is in good condition before you head out. Towing can add extra stress to your vehicle, accelerating repair issues for vehicles that are not properly maintained. Check all fluid levels, get an oil change if needed, inspect the brakes, and make sure your tires have plenty of tread and are properly inflated. The more you can do to make sure your car is operating properly, the less likely you are to find yourself, and your trailer, on the side of the road.

6. Do a Practice Run

As they say, practice makes perfect. This is especially important if you are towing a trailer for the first time. Driving when hauling is a completely different experience, so practice accelerating and stopping, backing up, turning corners, and even parking before heading off on your road trip. If you can, practice in a large empty parking lot.

7. Safety Checks

It is a good idea to plan stops every 50-60 miles to check on your trailer and make sure the lights and brakes are working, the tires are inflated, and the load is secure. Sometimes loads can shift if they are not properly tied down. Also, under no circumstances should any passengers be riding in the trailer, even if it is a mobile home.

8. Slow Down!

Drive slower and give yourself ample distance for stopping when towing a trailer. If you are driving too fast, and need to stop suddenly, you can cause your vehicle and trailer to slide, skid, jackknife, or even flip over. Plus, driving slowly (while towing) can help alleviate stress on your vehicle.

9. Towing Laws Vary from State to State

As you embark on your road trip, you may be crossing one, or multiple, states. You may find yourself subject to different towing laws from one state to another. For instance, towing height and width laws vary by state, as do speed limits and weight limits. Some states allow you to haul multiple trailers, while others don’t. Do your research, look online and read up on towing laws for the states where you will be traveling.

10. Carry Emergency Equipment

This is a great rule of thumb for any road trip – carry an emergency kit in case you breakdown or find yourself on the side of the road with a flat tire. Make sure your kit is well stocked with roadside flares and triangles, tire jack, jumper cables, even extra clothes, water and energy bars/ snacks. You may be driving in remote areas, so make sure to carry a cell phone, and that it is adequately charged during your drive.