DIY: Interior Car Detailing Tips

Unless you’re fastidious about your car’s interior, it’s usually the last thing on your cleaning list. As the months roll by, grime, wrappers, dust and junk can just pile up. Unfortunately, most of us finally get around to the deep cleaning when we tape the “For Sale” sign on the windshield. So whether you’re selling your car or just want to clean it up for spring, these tips from professional detailers will give you the most return for your energy. You’ll feel like your car is brand new again

Step 1: Slide seats forward and clean out the junk

You’ll be surprised by what you find. We found a lost cell phone, enough pens and pencils to equip a small office, and enough change for several vending machine lunches. Vacuum the seats, remove the mats and vacuum the carpet. Use a brush attachment for the dash and door panels. Don’t forget to clean out and vacuum those handy door pockets (another source of buried treasure).

Step 2: Deep-clean carpet and upholstery

Use a carpet cleaning machine to get the deep dirt that settles into the fibers of the carpet. (Clean cloth seats this way as well.) It sprays the carpet with a solution of water and cleaner and then sucks the dirt and grime into a reservoir. A machine like this pays for itself after just a few uses. You can also rent one from a rental center or use a spray-on cleaner and a scrub brush instead.

Step 3: Clean and condition leather or vinyl seats

After a couple of years, you’ll notice that the color of the leather seats no longer matches the rest of the interior. It’s not enough just to condition the leather. First spray on leather cleaner and rub vigorously with a clean terry cloth towel. To avoid rubbing the grime back into the seats, keep flipping the cloth to expose a fresh surface. Let the seats dry for an hour and then rub in a leather conditioner like Lexol to keep the leather supple. It’s available at discount stores and auto stores.

Step 4: Remember to clean nooks and crannies

Detailing means just that—finding and dealing with all the trim lines and recesses that a quick once-over cleaning job misses. Wrap a cloth around an old, worn screwdriver (without sharp edges) and spray Simple Green or other all-purpose cleaner on the cloth. Move it gently along the trim lines to pick up the gunk. Keep refreshing the surface of the cloth. Go around all the buttons and controls as well. Follow up with a rejuvenator like Armor All.

Step 5: Brush out the air vents

These louvers are a real magnet for dust, and a vacuum with a brush attachment just won’t get it all. Take an inexpensive paint brush and give it a light shot of Endust or Pledge furniture polish. Work the brush into the crevices to collect the dust. Wipe the brush off with a rag and move on to the next one.

Step 6: Wash the windows, including the top edges

Ever notice that line of grime on the tops of windows when they’re partially rolled down? Most people overlook this detail when giving their vehicle a quick wash. A few minutes with Windex and a clean rag is all it takes.

Step 7: Scrape off those annoying stickers

While all of your national and state park stickers may call to mind great memories, they can be a visual hazard as they accumulate. The high-quality stickers will pull off if you can get under a corner and carefully pull them free at a 90-degree angle. Others will leave a gummy residue and require a bit more attention. Cover your dash with an old towel and dab on Goo Gone. Then scrape and wipe it off.

Step 8: Kill bad odors.

Whether your vehicle smells like a Big Mac or cigarettes, one pump of the Odor Gun will solve the probl

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

• 4-in-1 screwdriver
• Putty knife
• Rags

You’ll also need a vacuum, scrub brush and artist brush.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list.

• Carpet cleaner
• Leather/vinyl cleaner conditioner
• All-purpose cleaner window cleaner
• Odor eliminating spray

Kelley Blue Book versus N.A.D.A

What They Cover

Both guides list prices for used and new cars, though this isn’t how they started (see below). Both now cater to consumers, though this too was not their original purpose. The two guides list thousands of cars, trucks, RVs and off road vehicles. They don’t cover antiques and collectibles, which are covered in specialty publications and websites.

Kelley’s Values

Les Kelley was a young man when he moved to Los Angeles and opened a small dealership with the profit he made selling his own car. Starting in 1914, the Kelley Kar Company grew rapidly until 1918, when Kelley began publishing lists of prices for the cars on his lot. The Kelley book expanded to include more models and years, but until 1993 it was meant mostly for dealers, not the general public.

The Kelley organization started out as a car retailer, then moved on to insurance and other support services, but throughout kept publishing its price list–aimed at dealers. Starting 1993, the Kelley guide became primarily consumer-focused, and the company was early in adopting an online presence. KBB.com debuted 1995, and soon moved to a free, ad-revenue model, with all prices and features available online.

NADA Origins

NADA stands for National Automobile Dealers Association , founded 1917 in an effort to cut taxes on car sales, about the same time Kelley published his first famous book. NADA’s first price list came out in 1933, amid the depression–and covered only used cars, though later the association shifted its focus to new vehicles. NADA moved its headquarters from Detroit to Washington, D.C., in 1941.

NADA is an industry association and a Washington lobby dedicated to promoting the interests of car dealers. NADA isn’t a private company; it depends on contributions from members to keep going, and it didn’t go online until 2000. Even now, the NADA public profile remains low compared to KBB.com and the third option, Edmunds.

Different Focus

Because of their different focus, the two calculate prices differently. Kelley prices tend to reflect mileage, condition, features and popular demand. Prices in the Kelley book are what consumers can expect to pay.

NADA prices are based on prices at auctions. Condition and mileage are less important, but demand is critical, as it helps determine auction prices. The prices listed in NADA publications are generally what dealers can expect to sell a vehicle for.

Bottom Line

Car shoppers are often confused by this difference, since NADA lists overall higher prices for the same car than does Kelley. But this is because NADA estimates high to meet dealer expectations, while Kelley estimates low to accommodate a wider range of factors. NADA trade-in values are lower than those listed by Kelley–also because of the different egments each organization caters to. It’s natural for dealers to shoot for low trade-in values.

The bottom line: Both have merit and neither is truly authoritative–neither consumer nor dealer is obligated to follow these guides. But for consumers, Kelley or Edmunds reflects more closely the buyer’s perspective.

(References: ehow.com)

What to Do: Stuck without cell service

Steamboat winter driving can be hairy at best, and downright dangerous at worst.

To start, we should say what should be obvious: Be sure your car is as prepped as possible for winter-driving.  Have good snow tires, ensure your 4WD is working correctly, do a vehicle check (good wipers, washer fluid, heater working, etc.), and, lastly, have an emergency kit stocked with: flashlight, batteries, blankets, extra coats/hats/gloves, non-perishable food (like high-calorie energy bars), water bottles, extra can of gas, stocked first-aid kit, flares, emergency light sticks, emergency whistle.

Now, what to do if the worst-possible happens: getting stuck with absolutely no cell phone service?

 

• First, make sure your vehicle is not in a hazardous situation (i.e., in danger of sliding off a ledge).
• “Wait for help! Stay with your vehicle, unless help is clearly visible nearby. Disorientation and confusion come quickly in cold and snowy weather…it’s easy to get lost.
• Display a sign of trouble to let people know you need help.
• Occasionally run the engine to keep it warm, and leave your lights on when the engine is running so you can be seen!
• Do minor exercises to keep up circulation.
• If more than one person is in the car, take turns sleeping …sleepiness can be a sign of hypothermia, and if you are not awakened periodically to increase body temperature, you can freeze to death!
• Huddle together for warmth.
• Layer clothing to trap body heat in order to keep warm.
• Keep a window that is away from the blowing wind slightly open to let air in. “

10 (Really) Expensive Car Mistakes to Avoid

About 60% of car owners who normally take their vehicle to the repair shop report spending between $500 and $2,000+ a year on auto repair and maintenance – while 60% of DIYers report saving $500 or more (over half report saving $1,000+) from doing their own auto repairs, according to surveys by AutoMD.com¹. This represents a considerable saving/spend gap. To help close this gap, below are some of the most common, and most costly, auto repair mistakes that car owners should avoid.

Top Ten Really Expensive Auto Repair Mistakes:

Mistake #1: Neglecting preventative maintenance and minor repairs.
Cost: $1,000s
Ignoring simple preventative maintenance, like changing the engine oil and filter, could damage your engine and replacing that engine could cost thousands² of dollars! Failing to make minor car repairs today, such as replacing a thermostat or front brake pads, could mean more expensive repairs tomorrow. Other simple, but important, repair and maintenance tasks car owners can do on their own – or have a mechanic perform at an affordable price -include changing the transmission fluid; checking the coolant level, mixture, and condition, and checking the vehicle’s tire pressure on a regular basis.
Bottom Line: Don’t put off to tomorrow, what can be done today.
Click here for a list of repairs car owners should never ignore.

Mistake #2: Not asking for your parts back.
Cost: Unnecessary $$
If a part needs to be replaced on your car, always ask for your old part back; simply ask the mechanic to place the old part in the new part’s box. Unfortunately, some dishonest repair shops may charge you for work that was not done or repairs that are not necessary. Asking for your old parts back confirms that the new part was actually installed, and it keeps the mechanic from replacing a part that is still good.
Bottom Line: Not asking for your old parts back could mean paying for an unnecessary repair, or paying for a job that was not performed!

Mistake #3: Neglecting your tires.
Cost: More gas $$$ + tire replacement ($140 – $600+³), and loss of safety (priceless!)
Driving on underinflated tires can shorten the life of your tires, increase tire wear and lead to significant tire damage from heat, potholes and other road hazards. If the tire fails completely, you could lose control of the vehicle! Plus, keeping your tires inflated to the proper pressure can improve your gas mileage by up to 3.3 percent. And don’t be tempted to get more mileage out of your tires than they can safely give by driving on them when they are bald. Driving on bald tires can reduce vehicle traction and lead to an accident.
Bottom Line: Proper maintenance not only extends the life of your tires, it means safer driving and better gas mileage.
Click here for AutoMD.com’s Tire Care Tips.
How to check tire pressure

Mistake #4: Ignoring dashboard warning lights.
Cost: $1,000s! Loss of safety (priceless!)
Dashboard warning lights are just that, warning lights! Pay attention to them – they could be warning you about a serious maintenance problem that could lead to expensive repairs or unsafe driving. Be sure to read your owner’s manual and familiarize yourself with what the different warning lights on your car’s dashboard mean – Check Engine Light, Oil Light, Temperature Light, Brake Light – and what action you should take for each. Never ignore your Check Engine Light, thinking the car is running fine. Your MPG could be reduced by as much as 30%. A blinking Check Engine light indicates a severe misfire that could damage your car’s expensive catalytic converter. Ignoring the oil and temperature lights can result in an engine replacement meaning thousands of dollars out of your pocket.
Bottom Line: Pay attention to all your car’s symptoms, including warning lights.

Mistake #5: Telling your mechanic what parts to replace.
Cost: Double your $$ (or more!)
Today’s vehicles are extremely complex, and while it is a good idea to do your research, some vehicle symptoms can be misleading. For example, you may be convinced that your car needs new spark plugs or an engine tune-up, when you really need the MAF sensor cleaned. If you tell your mechanic to replace the spark plugs instead of asking him to diagnose the problem, he will do it and charge you for it, leaving you with the same unresolved issue.
Bottom Line: Be informed, but listen to the experts, otherwise you could end up paying for an unnecessary repair, while the original issue remains unresolved.
Click here to see a list of commonly misdiagnosed vehicle symptoms and repairs.

Mistake #6: Not doing simple repairs yourself.
Cost: Up to $200!⁴
Rather than spending time and money at the repair shop, try doing some of the easiest repairs yourself, such as replacing wiper blades, replacing a light bulb, even replacing a fuse and an air filter. Reference your owner’s manual and go online for videos and how to guides (AutoMD.com’s how-to guides provide step by step instructions for these repairs). And, these jobs just may provide a stepping stone and the courage you need to attempt even more of your own car repairs, which can lead to more savings.
Bottom Line: Doing simple repairs yourself could actually save you time, as well as money.
Click here for a list of repairs car owners can, and should, do themselves.

Mistake #7: Failing to properly communicate your repair issue.
Cost: Time and $$ at the repair shop: Labor rate is $40-$200+/hour!⁵
If you can’t describe the problem effectively, your mechanic will spend more time diagnosing (meaning more labor costs) and may come to the wrong conclusion! Write down what you hear, feel, see, and smell before you arrive and keep a log of exactly when the symptoms occur (for instance, when you’re braking or when you’re driving over a certain speed), and share this with your mechanic. Also, note the location and frequency of the symptoms, and if any repairs were done on the vehicle recently – sometimes a problem is related to the last repair. You can also go online to get help diagnosing your car’s problem – AutoMD.com has an easy-to-use diagnostic tool that provides a list of questions your mechanic might ask, as well as assistance to help you troubleshoot the problem(s) yourself.
Bottom Line: Describing your repair issue accurately will save time, money and headaches.

Mistake #8: Driving on fumes.
Cost: $225+⁶
Most cars on the road today have electric fuel pumps mounted inside the fuel tank. Back in the 70s and 80s, when cars had carburetors, you could drive until all the gas was gone, re-fuel, and drive again with no problem. However, most of today’s vehicles have fuel-injected engines that rely on in-tank electric pumps that use gas to cool and lubricate its components. Driving your fuel injected engine frequently on fumes could cause the pump to fail, leading to a repair costing hundreds of dollars.
Bottom Line: Keep the fuel level above a quarter tank to extend the life of your fuel pump and… avoid running out of gas!

Mistake #9: Visiting the dealership for every repair/maintenance issue.
Cost: An extra $300 per year⁷
Car owners can save an estimated $300+ a year on average by opting for their local independent repair shop versus the car dealership⁷. In some cases, the dealership service center can make more sense than the local repair shop for recalls, warranty work or very complex repair issues. However, for many jobs, if you do your research and find the right independent repair shop, a repair can be done by an expert mechanic at a savings of potentially hundreds of dollars.
Bottom Line: Compare prices on routine jobs, find out how much the dealership versus your local repair shop charges.
Click here to read dealership vs. repair shop myths.

Mistake #10: Accepting the first repair shop quote.
Cost: 14% or more $$$!⁸
When it comes to a major auto repair, get a second opinion… and a third and fourth one. Comparing shops and prices can also help you avoid being charged for unnecessary repairs. Before authorizing work, go online to research various repair shops, read reviews, get ratings, etc. and be sure to call to get several quotes over the phone. In a nationwide analysis⁸ of repair shops by AutoMD.com, mystery shoppers were able to shave an average of nearly 14% from the quoted estimate given by the majority of the shops by countering with online information: i.e., specific, ’fair’ job estimate based on labor rates and labor hours required, as well as true parts cost.
Bottom Line: Shop around, check online, save money.

Source: AutoMD

¹Sources: AutoMD 2011 Mileage Repair and Maintenance Survey and AutoMD 2012 DIY Report

²AutoMD.com Auto Repair Estimate for a sample base model 2005 Toyota Camry in zip code 90746, home to the company’s headquarters. Engine Replacement on this vehicle is $4,115

³The cost of new tires is between $35 – $160 per tire, depending on size and quality: http://www.automd.com/about-automd/press/01-25-2011/

⁴Estimated average savings for five jobs that car owners can, and should, do themselves compared to average cost for each job at a repair shop or dealership: http://www.automd.com/about-automd/press/6-29-2010/

⁵Labor Rates available at www.automd.com/shops/; range shown is in zip code 90746, home to AutoMD.com’s headquarters

⁶AutoMD.com Auto Repair Estimate for a sample base model 2005 Toyota Camry in zip code 90746, home to the company’s headquarters

⁷Car Owners can Save an Estimated $300+ a Year Opting for an Independent Service Shop: http://www.automd.com/about-automd/press/5-17-2010/

⁸http://www.automd.com/about-automd/press/4-15-2010/

Why is my engine overheating?

If you’ve been getting steamed by your engine on a regular basis, your skin may look great, but your blood pressure is probably through the roof. An engine that frequently overheats can have a number of causes. Some are as simple as low coolant, though others are more involved and may lead to serious repairs. Regardless, it’s not a problem to ignore, because it can be a very expensive engine killer.

And the fact is, there are typically only a few things that commonly cause an engine to overheat on a regular basis. See what works for you, and, if needed, take your car into the professionals.  No matter the fix, it will certainly be less expensive than a blown engine.

1. Low Coolant. By far, the most common cause for an engine overheating is simply a low coolant level.  Your engine depends on this coolant to circulate and remove heat from the engine, and, if you don’t have enough coolant, heat will build up and your engine will over heat.  So first, check your coolant level.

2. Electric Cooling Fan Failure. If you have an electric cooling fan that isn’t coming on, this can cause your engine to overheat. The electric cooling fan draws cooler air through your radiator when your car isn’t going fast enough to ram it through from the front. You can test this by letting your car idle long enough for the engine to heat up. If you’ve been having an overheating problem in traffic, keep an eye on your temperature gauge. When it starts creeping into the danger zone, look under the hood to see if your electric fan is running. If it’s not, you’ll need to figure out why. There are two usual causes to this:
2a. Bad Electric Fan: Sometimes your fan motor will just burn out and your fan won’t come on at all. To test this, find your radiator fan switch and disconnect the wiring harness. Get a jumper wire and insert it into both contacts, your fan should come on. Another way to test the fan is to turn on the air conditioning. Most, but not all, cars activate the cooling fan at either a medium or high speed when you turn on the AC.
2b. Bad Radiator Fan Switch: There is a switch that tells your cooling fan to come on when your coolant reaches a certain temperature. The easiest way to test this switch is to disconnect the wiring harness and then run a jumper wire across the harness contacts. If the fan comes on, you need to replace the switch.

3. Thermostat Not Opening. The most common symptom of a failed thermostat is overheating at highway speeds. Your engine may be able to stay cool at low speeds because it’s not working that hard, and therefore not creating as much heat. But at highway speeds your engine needs lots of coolant flowing through. If the thermostat doesn’t open, there isn’t enough flow to keep things cool, and you’ll find yourself looking more like a steam ship than a sedan going down the highway.

4. Broken Fan Belt. There are still lots of engines out there which have a fan belt to drive the engine cooling fan. If you see a belt attached to your fan, you’re in this club. The good news is your repair is always cheaper than the electric guys. You can replace your fan belt easily if it’s broken.

5. Clogged Radiator If your car has more than 50,000 miles on it, your radiator could start getting gummed up. You can avoid this and other problems associated with old coolant by flushing your radiator every year. There’s nothing good about an overheating problem. If your engine is running hot you should try to fix the problem as quickly as possible. A hot engine can do damage to itself, even if you aren’t going into a full overheating. Check your oil regularly to be sure you are providing adequate lubrication to your engine, everything you can do to reduce heat buildup helps!

6. Go to the professionals. If none of the above have helped, take your vehicle in to someone who can fix it.  It will likely save you money in the long run!

It’s Grilling Season!

Choosing a grill

It’s heating up and with the prospect of summer barbeques ahead, June gets many thinking about a new grill.  June also means Father’s Day, a time when a grill can make a great gift for the Dad in your life.

But, no matter the season, grill-buying can be tough.  With various companies offering the “coolest new features” and “best heating capabilities,” how do you know what you should actually be looking for? Here are some tips to guide you through the process:

1. Think about when you’ll use it

If you plan to grill throughout the year, and especially on weekdays, you might not always have the flexibility or patience to wait on a charcoal grill to heat up – and the less you use the grill, the less you’re getting your money’s worth. You may want to consider gas or electric instead.

How often you grill might also matter when it comes to the grates – porcelain-coated, cast-iron grids are easiest to clean, resist rust, and usually last the longest. Stainless steel grids are rust-resistant too, but food might stick to them.

2. Don’t keep up with these Joneses

This advice goes for many things, including grills: Forget what your friends and neighbors have. Instead, think about what you need based on the kind of cooking you plan to do.

A giant grill capable of cooking a side of beef and sporting features like a warming tray, a steamer, infrared cooking, and fuel and temperature gauges sounds pretty cool. But it costs a lot more to buy and more to heat, meaning it’s going to be more expensive to use than a smaller, simpler grill. Plus, bigger cooking areas make it harder to distribute heat evenly, which means you may have to pay more attention to placing food on the cooking surface. It’ll also take longer to clean and require more storage space.

3. Ignore the hottest grill

BTUs are a heavily-advertised way to measure a grill’s heating ability, but they’re not as important as other factors. The BTU measurement is related to the size of the burner, so a comparison of BTU ratings between different-sized grills doesn’t make sense. Instead, look for the ability to distribute heat evenly, as well as more burners – which allows you to control the temperature on different parts of the grill.

4. Watch for stainless steals

As mentioned in the video, there’s a big difference between cheap stainless and quality American stainless steel. Pure stainless will last longer, clean faster, look better – and cost more. Bring a magnet when you go shopping so you can test it. If it sticks, that’s not high-quality stainless. (If you’re not set on stainless, consider a porcelain-coated grill. It’s easier to keep shiny.)

5. Lower your fuel costs

If you buy a propane grill, it’s cheaper to get your tank refilled at a refill station than swapping your tank at one of the racks in convenience and grocery stores. But gas is still cheaper than charcoal, so if that’s what you’re going for, always check for coupons. In both cases, being ready to cook as soon as the grill’s warmed up will save you money, since you’ll waste less heat.

Electric grills can be an even more efficient option, and you’ll never have to shop for fuel deals: Just plug it in. But barbecue aficionados will complain that electric-cooked food lacks the flavor traditional grills add.

Scenic Summer Drives

North Shore Drive on the edge of Lake Superior in Minnesota.

Summer means fun, sun, and enjoying a little slower pace of life for a few months.  For many, it also brings the desire for travel and road trips.  The same is true for us, and as summer rapidly approaches, we wanted to highlight some of the most scenic road trip routes across the country:

Blue Ridge Parkways, Carolinas and Virginia
This 500-mile routt takes travelers through the Great Smoky Mountains and Shenandoah national parks and highlights spectacular views at Appalachian overlooks. It’s a beautiful drive in any season, not just summer, with undulating slopes of color in autumn, a bounty of forest canopy in summer, and hot-cider ski resorts in winter. The parkway has become a paradise for birders: with 59 resident species, it boasts more diversity than the entire continent of Europe.

Stop: In the mines of the mineral-rich Appalachian Mountains, visitors can pan for emeralds, amethyst, rubies, topaz, and even gold. (emeraldvillage.com; from $10.)

Routt 12, Utah
A little closer to home, Routt 12 traverses through the red rock majesty of Utah, winding between Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon national parks. The 124-mile strip has funky small towns and very few entry points, so this route requires a map and determination to witness the steep sandstone canyons and bluffs of purple sage, and to tackle the narrow cliff-hanging ridgeline road called The Hogback.

Stop: The log-and-sandstone Kiva Koffeehouse in Escalante supplies travelers with art, coffee, and views of Escalante Grand Staircase National Monument. (kivakoffeehouse.com.)

North Shore Drive, Minnesota
Lake Superior’s Minnesota shoreline is a thing of glacial beauty. As you drive from Duluth toward Two Harbors, Lake Superior’s (Gitche Gumee’s) “shining big sea waters” stretch out to the right and birch and maple northwoods climb high on the left. You’ll also get a look at ocean tankers anchored in the last inland port of the St. Lawrence Seaway as they wait to upload iron or grain from America’s heartland before sending it out to the world.

Stop: Duluth’s four-mile lakeside sports path shows off the city highlights: a rose garden, pre-Prohibition brewery, an aerial bridge, and the largest grain elevators in the world. (duluthmn.gov)

Trail Ridge Road, Colorado
Our home sate is home to the the highest continually-paved road in the U.S.: the Trail Ridge Road winds as high as 12,185 feet through Rocky Mountain National Park. Following a route traced over the Continental Divide by Native Americans for thousands of years, visitors can see elk, deer, and bighorn sheep above the tree line in the dramatic tundra. 

Stop: The imposing Victorian splendor of the Stanley Hotel, in Estes Park, CO, was Stephen King’s inspiration for The Shining. (stanleyhotel.com; from $139 in low season)

Going to the Sun Road, Montana
One of America’s most inspiring public-works projects winds through Glacier National Park’s snow-covered peaks, sub-alpine meadows, and lakes across the Continental Divide on the spine of the Rockies. Snowdrifts threaten to top 100 feet in winter, so the road is open only from May to October.

Stop: To learn more about the geology of glaciers, local Native American customs, or the park’s ecosystem, sign up for a day class at the Glacier Institute. (glacierinstitute.org; $50 per person, per day)

Silverado Trail, California
Here’s a road trip where the food rivals the scenery. Flanked by the rolling vineyards of more than 40 wineries, the Silverado Trail on the eastern edge of Napa Valley road passes a who’s who of the American culinary scene. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, where a 1973 Cabernet made headlines, and Yountville, home to the French Laundry restaurant, are two highlights.

Stop: Learn to make your very own wines at a blending session and then take the bottle home. (crushpad.net; $45)

U.S. 1, Florida Keys
Leaving the mainland for the 120-mile-long island chain of Florida’s Keys, travelers enter a paradise of beach bars, water sports, and Parrotheads (Jimmy Buffett fans). From Key Largo to Key West, the overseas highway strings the islands together like beads, running past lighthouses, underwater coral-reef parks, and across 7 Mile Bridge—one of the longest bridges in the world.

Stop: On the docks at Islamorada travelers can hand-feed bait fish to tarpon more than six feet long. (robbies.com; from $3.)

Random Car Facts!

"Spirit of Ecstasy," Rolls Royce

Who doesn’t like random bits of knowledge?  We do, especially of the car-variety.  Below we’ve compiled some interesting car facts we found interesting.  If nothing else, they’re sure to help you pass some time at the office!

1. Four of the top five appreciating used cars had S in their names: Jaguar S Type, Volvo S40, Volvo S80, and Audi S4.

2. There were approximately 6.4 million auto accidents in the United States in 2005. The financial cost of these crashes is more than $230 Billion dollars. 2.9 million people were injured and 42,636 people killed. About 115 people die every day in vehicle crashes in the United States — one death every 13 minutes. (I know, why can’t they update these stats once in awhile?)

3. The fastest production car in the world is the 257mph SSC Ultimate Aero. When it broke the world speed record, it was driven by a 71-year-old called Chuck Bigelow.

4.The fastest non-jet powered car is the wheel-driven Vesco Turbinator, which was driven by Don Vesco at 458mph on the Bonneville Salt Flats on October 18 2001.

5. The fastest car of all time is the jet-powered Thrust SSC, driven by Wing Commander Any Green, which reached speeds of 763mph on the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah, USA on October 15 1997.

6. The first ever land speed record was set on December 18, 1898, when French race car driver reached a speed of 39.23mph in an electric car.

7. The Porsche 911 was originally designated as the ‘Porsche 901′ (901 being its internal project number). Peugeot protested on the grounds that they owned the trademark to all car names formed by three numbers with a zero in the middle. So, before production started, the new Porsche had its name changed to 911. It went on sale in 1964.

8. The Rolls Royce hood ornament is called the Spirit of Ecstasy.

9. A Rolls-Royce Phantom’s leather interior is made from 15 different hides.

10. The Bugatti Veyron takes ten seconds to stop from its top speed of 253mph.

11. The paint on a Ferrari F40 is so thin you can see the carbon fiber weave through it. More layers would have added undesirable weight.

12. Ferrari makes a maximum of 14 cars a day.

13. The first car was the three-wheeled Benz Patent Motorwagen, built in 1885.

14. In 2007 Toyota became the world’s biggest car manufacturer, taking over from US giants General Motors.

15. If a car is hit by lightning its occupants will generally be safe. The Faraday effect (discovered by Michael Faraday in 1845) causes the electricity to dissipate around the car’s metal frame.

16.The engine bay of a McLaren F1 road car (pictured right) is gold plated because it’s the best material for reflecting heat.

17. Game designer Kazunori Yamauchi, the man behind Gran Turismo, helped develop the Nissan GT-R.

18. The first traffic lights were installed in Cleveland, Ohio in 1914.

19. The onboard computer in a typical modern car is more powerful than the one used to send astronauts to the moon in the 1960s and 1970s.

20. The fastest time for removing a car engine, and replacing it, is 42 seconds for a Ford Escort, on 21 November 1985.

21. Porsche is the world’s most profitable car manufacturer.

22. The world’s widest road is widely believed to be the Monumental Axis in Brazil and that it fits 160 cars side by side. This is untrue, as the road consists of two avenues with six lanes on either side; a total of twelve lanes. However, it was in the Guinness Book of Records as having the widest median of a divided highway in the world.

23. The world’s longest car is the 100 foot limousine built by Jay Ohrberg of Burbank, California. The car features a king-size waterbed and a swimming pool, complete with diving board, and a helicopter landing pad.

24. The world’s lowest street-legal car is the 19 inch-tall ‘Flatmobile’, built by Perry Watkins from Buckinghamshire. The record was previously held by Andy Saunders, whose car ‘Flat Out’ stands 21.5 inches off the ground.

25. On August 20 2004, 21 people squeezed into a Mini Cooper in Athens, Greece, setting a new world record.

26. The most expensive car sold at auction was the 1961 Ferrari 250 GT SWB California Spyder for $10,894,900.

27. In 1916, 55 per cent of the cars in the world were Model T Fords.

28. The U.S. uses about half of the world’s gasoline.

29. Traffic congestion wastes three billion gallons of gas a year.

30. U.S. aircraft used 19,704 gallons of fuel and traveled 848 billion passenger miles in June 2007 to May 2008, which works out to 43 pMPG.

31. In the 1960′s, 90% of children who lived within a mile of their school walked or biked to school. Today? Only 31% do so.

How to Drive in Mud!

We do NOT suggest that you try this at home!

Spring in Steamboat often means lots of MUD!  For most, this will never be a problem, because you just drive on pavement; but, for those who like the road less traveled, here are some tips for getting through the mud!

Drive slow! You are much less likely to slide around if you are taking it easy. Try a lower gear to control your lead foot.

Never stomp on the gas pedal! If you are losing traction, either take your foot off the gas pedal (if you are going downhill) or keep it steady (if you are going uphill). Nothing gets you stuck quicker than gunning the engine, which only makes your tires spin faster and your ruts deeper.

If you have a regular rear wheel drive vehicle (not 4WD, AWD or FWD), put some weight in the back of your vehicle, right over the rear axle (deep in the trunk or pickup bed). Rocks, gravel and firewood are especially good for weight because you can use them if you get stuck.

Drive so your tires ride the high areas of the road, not the ruts. Ruts are wetter, therefore more muddy, slippery, etc.

Do not ride the brakes. If you are going downhill, shift to a lower gear or just go slow!

Do not stomp on the brake pedal to stop. Pump it slowly. This is called cadence braking, it’s what your ABS on modern cars does automatically when there is a loss of traction, i.e. wet or icy conditions.

If you start to slide, turn your wheels into the direction of the slide (as you would on ice), and start pumping the brakes. If you can’t stop and are heading off the road, turn into the slide and turn the car as gently as possible away from the edge. Sudden turns can turn the car over!

If you get stuck in the mud, put it in park, calm down and get out of the car/van/truck.

1. Survey the lay of the land and figure out the easiest way out of there.
2. Grab some rocks, small logs or that gravel in the back, and make a path for your tires getting as close to the tread as possible (focus on the rear tires if you have rear wheel drive) and don’t create too much height for them to go over.
3. Get back in the car and very slowly go forward. If your tires start to spin, try reverse alternately with forward, rocking the car back and forth until your tires hopefully grab. *Be careful here, you do not want to go deeper in the mud, so pay attention.
4. You might need to try more rocks/sticks again and again.

Bring your cell phone so you can always call for help as a last resort. If you have no cell phone or phone service, always travel with drinking water and a sleeping bag so you can wait it out.

 

Spring Car Care Tips

The weather’s getting warmer and the sun is shining in Steamboat!  But as the snow melts and we all start dreaming of long summer days, think about directing some of your spring energy to your vehicle.  The winter months, especially in Steamboat, can be tough on your car, and you want to get it in top shape for long summer drives and road trips!

Remove your winter tires, or rotate your all-seasons: Don’t wear down good (and expensive) snow tires by leaving them on all summer and fall!  Change them out for summer.  If you have all season tires, be sure to have them rotated to extend their life and save you money.

Wash your car underneath: After a winter of chloride, salt, and muck splashing the underneath of your car, this area needs some attention.  Find a good car wash or use a power-sprayer that will let you reach the underside.

Check all fluids: Your engine works harder in the cold winter months.  Be sure to have your fluids checked and topped off.

Apply an interior protectant: The sun’s rays can breakdown leather and vinyl.  Find a good proctectant and wipe it all down.

Change your oil: Stick to your manufacturer’s recommendation for your vehicle and shift to a more common 10W-30 for the warmer months

Brake check: This should be done regularly to ensure your safety, but the change of seasons is a good reminder to do so.  Key warning signs there may be a problem: excessive grinding or squeaking when breaking.